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Fall Leaf Raking Essentials For Better Lawn Care

As the cooler temperatures arrive and you’ll soon be exchanging your leaf rake for snow shovel, consider a few simple leaf raking tips that will help winterize your lawn while increasing your chances for a better spring green-up.

How well you maintain the leaves in your lawn is a large indicator for how healthy and prepared your lawn will be for next season. When neglected, leaves can suffocate and rob turf of sunlight, water and other essential nutrients. For every leaf that lies on top of your turf, multiple blades of grass beneath it run the risk of browning or even worse, developing patches of mold or fungus depending on how low temperatures drop in your area.

Depending on your yard, raking once a week should be sufficient in at least warding off fungus and disease from developing in your yard. If you do step up to twice a week, try to keep it to a light raking as it will be gentler on your lawn. Raking is a natural form of dethatching but a little layer of thatch build up is actually healthy for your turf. Just be sure the second raking doesn’t over do it.

If you want to save time and utilize leaves for compost, a mulching mower is a smart investment. A mulching mower can be very beneficial to your yard as it will chop up and shred leaves to easily decompose in the soil. This granulates leaves into a natural fertilizer to be absorbed into your lawn.

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Using Vinegar as Weed Killer in your Lawn Care Routine

It’s not just an old wives tale; vinegar really does get rid of weeds, if you know how to properly use it.
Vinegar is a popular choice among homeowners who are in favor of a more organic method to get rid of pesky weeds. Lawn care specialists offer organic weed control products, but when weeds sprout in between applications, you may have to take weed control into your own hands.
So what kind of vinegar is effective against weeds? If you’ve tried this method before, you may have been disappointed when the only result you got was a very vinegary garden. The reason your previous attempt may have been ineffectual was because you didn’t use the right kind of vinegar. Lawn care studies have shown that in order to be effective against weeds, the vinegar must possess a 20 percent concentration of acetic acid. Now that you know what kind of vinegar to use, how should it be applied?
Most people spray organic weed control products directly on the plants, thinking it won’t do any harm. In most cases, this is probably true. However, when using vinegar, you’re using an acidic liquid that can remove the waxy layer of defense plant leaves have, leaving the plant susceptible to dehydration. The second application alternative is to drench the soil directly below the plant. However, this also presents complications as the pH level of the soil is lowered to a level that plants cannot survive. The plants won’t immediately die, because the acidifying effects will last for up to a year. The plant may have one last period of bloom, which is when you should apply lime to neutralize the soil.
Vinegar might take a little more planning than some other organic weed control products, but it is still an inexpensive method to eliminate weeds without posing harm to the environment. Lawn care experts suggest applying the vinegar on warm, dry days. If it happens to rain immediately after you apply the vinegar application, you’ll need to re-apply because the original application will have been washed away.

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Lawn Care Tip: Using Drop Spreaders to Fertilize your Lawn

When your lawn needs fertilized, the best solution is to contact your local lawn care company and have the professionals attend to the task. However, if you’re one of those do-it-yourselfers, then there is some research to be done on the subject. Not all fertilizers are the same, so you should decide which fertilizer is right for your lawn, how much should be applied, when it should be applied, as well as what to do to ensure the application is successful. If you’re using granule fertilizer, you will want to look into purchasing a spreader to disseminate the fertilizer evenly.

There are generally two types of spreaders: drop spreaders and broadcast spreaders. Broadcast spreaders are particularly advantageous for those who have a large lawn to cover. However, if the area you’re fertilizing is small, a drop spreader might be more ideal.

Whereas broadcast spreaders fling the fertilizer in every direction, drop spreaders are more focused, releasing the fertilizer directly underneath the device through the hopper. This means you have to make certain you have covered that area thoroughly, or else you could have some areas of your lawn growing wildly while other sections barely look alive. Another downfall to using a drop spreader is the risk of over-fertilizing your lawn; applying fertilizer is a very delicate balance and if you apply too much fertilizer, you run the risk of frying your lawn.

If this sounds like too much of a hassle or you’re not particularly good at staying within the lines, your best option is to contact us and leave the fertilizing to us. Sometimes having a beautiful, successful lawn means leaving it up to the pros!

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Lawn Care Tip: Grasses Perfect for the Sun

If you have a yard that is in the sun for the majority of the day, specialists will tell you that not just any type of grass will do. In order to have a successful lawn, you need to have a ground cover that can withstand the constant sunlight and the heat that accompanies long periods of sunlight.

Your lawn does not have to be the typical kind of ground cover most people have. Part of having a beautiful landscape is employing creative ideas that will give your property a distinctive appearance. Interspersed with your lawn should be ground cover that will thrive in the beating sun, such as thyme, anemone and stonecrop.

Thyme is a dense ground cover that will successfully survive in sunny or partially sunny areas of your landscape. This lawn care option offers a variety of colors when it comes to foliage, from bright green and bluish to a grayish green. Unlike your typical lawn, thyme yields a beautiful pink or lavender flowering carpet. Perhaps you won’t want to step foot on this beautiful landscape canvass, but if you do, thyme holds up exceptionally well under occasional foot traffic.

Anemone is perfect for soils that are finicky and have a hard time producing healthy lawns of the typical variety, according to professionals. Blooming in the late spring, anemone produces tall and exquisite flowers that are certain to add to your sophisticated landscape. What makes anemone even more ideal is its high tolerance for dry soil.

Stonecrop also offers beautiful foliage and is also a flowering groundcover. This ideal turf mat is tolerant of hot, dry weather, but also can withstand cold, harsh winter weather. Depending on the variety, some stonecrop grows close to the ground and is not impeded by foot traffic; however other species are more delicate and would require an area not frequented by feet.

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Lawn Care Tip: Ups and Downs of Seeding

Your lawn needs a fresh start. So which route do you go – seed or sod? Most lawn care companies offer both services, but each method for creating a new lawn has its pros and cons. Here are some things to consider when choosing the seeding method.

If you’re on a budget, seeding is definitely the way to go. Some lawn care professionals estimate seeding costs a third of what sod costs. With the reduced expense, you will have to put in a little more effort once the seeds are laid. Seeding requires continual watering until the first mowing. This task runs the risk of over or underwatering. If you overwater the seeds, puddles can form that will drown the seed and create potential run-off, which can wash the seed away or create an uneven turf.

Underwatering can increase the occurrence of weeds. Seeding also requires some type of mulch to cover the seed. The mulch or hay can have weed seeds, getting your lawn off to a bad start. However, most lawn care companies take care to use only weed-seed free mulch or hay.

Seeding requires close attention for up to a year, but once the seeds take root, you will have a thick and uniform lawn. Lawn care specialists also say the grass will be healthier and longer-lasting because it’s grown right there on your lawn instead of transported.

If you’re thinking of seeding your lawn, call us for a consultation and find out which method better suits you!

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Lawn care for dog owners

Not much is more American than having a beautiful, well-kept lawn and a hyper dog running around in it while the family watches on in bliss. That’s the dream, but the reality is that dogs can wreak havoc on a lawn by wearing down the grass or causing discoloration from urine and fecal matter. Here are some lawn care tips to keep your turf protected from dog damages.

Plant a grass that is conducive to extreme wear. Some lawn care experts will suggest installing a hardscape to give your dog a place to roam, but if having a beautiful, vibrant lawn is your only option, opt for a type of grass that is known for its durability. Lawn care specialists suggest using Bermuda, a warm-season grass or Kentucky bluegrass, a cool-season grass. Both these types will have a better chance of withstanding the constant pounding of paws throughout your lawn.

Drench “dog spots.” If your dog stays out for most of the day, this might be a tougher option to follow through with, but if your dog goes out a certain number of times a day to do his business, this should be a great solution to eliminating urine spots from your lawn. Once the dog has finished urinating, follow up with a thorough spray of water from the garden hose. Don’t be afraid of overwatering; soak the area until the urine is completely diluted.

Establish a “potty area.” Training your dog to do his business in only one specific area will help you keep your lawn free from urine spots and ensure you only have one area that will be affected. When your dog goes outside, only take him to this spot and keep him there until he goes. With time, the dog will be trained to only go to that specific area, leaving the rest of your lawn untouched!

If your lawn already has extensive trampling damage or urine spots, contact us for restorative services.

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Lawn Care Tip: Sod over Seed

Choosing whether to sod or seed your landscape can be a tough decision. But as with any decision, you should definitely be well-informed as to the benefits of each choice. Sod is a popular choice because of its convenience; however there are other aspects to consider.

Sod can be much more expensive than seeding because much of the work to perfect the grass has already been established. Sod is grown at professional sod farms where a specialist has taken the seeds and cultivated an almost-perfect lawn. Once the sod is ready, you will have a professionally grown and mature lawn placed on your land, and the roots are already present, so it’s just a matter of time before they take root and continue to grow. With seeds, you have to wait weeks for growth and you’re never sure if the roots will establish, so you may end up with patches throughout your landscape.

Sod is also beneficial because you don’t have to worry about any differences in terrain. If there is an incline on your yard, the sod will be molded to fit that incline and will stay put even in the event of heavy rains. With seeds, you run the risk of the soil shifting and the seeds getting washed away. Once the sod has been laid, there is relatively little start-up effort since everything is already in place. Of course you still need to water it regularly and take care of it like any other lawn, but for all intents and purposes, your lawn comes ready-made!

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Lawn care tip: How to combat thatch build-up

If you have grass, you’re gonna have thatch. But it’s how you deal with thatch build-up that will determine how much, if any, of an effect it will have on your lawn’s health.

Thatch is a culmination of dead organic matter such as grass clippings and other plant material that creates a barrier in the soil. The water, air and sunlight the soil needs to remain full of nutrients and moisture to produce green, healthy grass has a harder time reaching the grass roots. If the thatch layer becomes too thick, the grass will begin to turn brown and die. Furthermore, a thick layer of thatch is an open invitation to destructive pests such as grubs, which will kill your lawn completely by feeding off the roots of your grass.

Fortunately, there are a few ways to combat thatch build-up that are safe for your lawn. The first is to rake the thatch away from your grass. By making this a “must-do” task at least twice per season, you will increase the unlikeliness that your lawn will experience any negative issues from thatch. However, if you and your rake haven’t been too familiar in a while, it might behoove you to look into verticutting. You will need to rent a vertical mower to eliminate the thatch barrier. Once that is complete, you definitely need to aerate the soil below and add fertilizer. Since the lawn has been so starved for essentials, this rehabilitation process is a must in order to get your yard back into tip-top shape. Some experts suggest seeding as well, just to give your lawn an added boost and get some new grass roots in to give your yard a denser, greener appearance.

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Lawn care tip: When is the best time of year to weed?

If there’s anything more annoying than weeds sprouting up throughout your lawn, it’s pulling each of those weeds. It might even seem like the old wives’ tale about pulling gray hairs applies to weeds: pull one weed and two more grow back. But if you time your weed pulling or weed control treatments right, you might just be able to see a decrease in the following season.

Lawn care specialists advise that if your lawn is comprised of 50 percent or more weeds, then it’s time for a “do-over.” But if you haven’t quite hit that limit (even if sometimes it seems that way), then you just need to strategize your weed control and come up with an effective battle plan.

For optimal weed prevention, lawn care experts recommend weeding in the spring and fall when they’re at their weakest point. During the spring, all plants are gearing up to grow, even weeds. The roots are trying to pump as much energy into the leaves as possible, which is where you need to take them out, thus eliminating much of the energy supply and ensuring they don’t have a chance to spread their seeds around.

If your weed problem rears its ugly head during the summer, lawn care technicians recommend weeding throughout the summer season, but get ready for the big battle in the fall. By treating germinated seeds, you’re able to get the weeds before they’ve even sprouted. If you were lucky enough to jump on the weeds in the spring, by fall they will be still trying to recover from the damage and will likely die off during the cold winter months when their much-needed nutrients and sunlight aren’t as prevalent.

If you’re tired of weeds in the summer, call us before spring and fall to get a jump start on your weed battle!

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Lawn care tip: Getting rid of lawn mushrooms

Mushrooms are relatively harmless to your lawn, and the only risk they pose is to children or animals who might eat them. The best way to get rid of mushrooms is to figure out what is causing them to grow in the first place and remove that cause from your lawn.

Mushrooms are a sign that something is decaying beneath your lawn. Lawn care experts claim that it can be anything from a rotting tree stump to a long-ago buried family pet. Whatever the case may be, if you see mushrooms in your lawn, you’re going to have to dig a little deeper to find the culprit. Mushrooms are a fungus, so you need to remove what is causing the fungus to grow.

If you don’t want to disturb the earth for whatever reason (who knows WHAT you’ll find if you aren’t sure what’s causing the growth), there is another solution to neutralizing the fungal growth. Eliminate the surface mushrooms with a lawn mower or a shovel. Mix ¼ cup of dish liquid in with 3 gallons of warm water and saturate the ground with this mixture. If the area is larger, you might need to make more than one batch.

This process will need to be repeated in a week and possibly again within a couple of months, but eventually you should stop seeing mushrooms popping up in your lawn.

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